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The Continuing Voyages of
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After a four month lay-up on the beach at Haunn while I gave her hull a repaint, she was re-launched her on April 6 and secured to her own 'new' mooring in the shape of a very heavy, old diesel truck engine which I'd had put down a few days previously as the one I used last year had been reclaimed by its owner!

Here in The Hebrides, the weather so far this year has not been very good so I've only taken her out half a dozen times, all of them being short trips round Eriskay, over to the Atlantic side of South Uist and down to Northbay on Barra.  With the causeway now linking Eriskay and South Uist, the shortest route to the west is under the causeway bridge which can present the sailor with it's own unique set of problems.  The underneath part is very low which gives little or no clearance when the tide is high (so half-tide is best) and also the water in the mile-wide Sound of Eriskay is forced through what is really a tiny 30 foot gap under the bridge, creating a tremendous current.  It can be quite slow if running against the flow!  I have my own opinions as regards the type of construction used in building the causeway and the bridge and if I work myself up enough, I might just persuade my brain to put my thoughts into print and publish them on this site.

That's perhaps for the future but, in the meantime, the trip that I'd been planning for a while round the Isle of Skye started in July.

routes 01
West Coast of Scotland

"Saorsa" was performing well and the engine was running perfectly.  On the whole, the weather was overcast and foggy for most of the 14 days that I was away but at least the wind was light - with one exception.  After a short call in to Lochboisdale, I made my way north to Kallin which is a good safe harbour and used as a base by a number of fishing boats.  Unfortunately, I'd never been there before and, in the foggy gloom, it was difficult to locate.  Without going into a long story, my thanks to the skipper and crew of the Castlebay registered fishing vessel, "Stelimar", CY163, who kindly pointed me in the right direction.  Even then, I took what I can only describe as a 'first left' instead of a 'third left' which put me very close to reefs in a narrow channel.  'Dead slow' became the order of the day!

Such a contrast in the weather the following morning for the crossing to Skye - bright, dry, no wind and, as a bonus, some sun too as I headed out towards Dunvegan Head 17 miles away  The north-west Skye coast is spectacular with cliffs rising sheer out of the sea to over a thousand feet in some places and home to many thousands of sea birds.  After a visit into Loch Bay, I tied up at the ferry port of Uig for the night and, after replenishing my fuel, set out the next morning, once again in semi-gloom.  The strong tidal currents at Rubha Hunish didn't present a problem and I turned south towards Staffin.  At this point, rather than continue on my planned course, I decided to head east towards the mainland while conditions were good as far as the wind and sea were concerned.  For the next hour and a half, it was a case of steering by compass which was a little unnerving at times as I had no horizon.

I was about a mile off the coast when it came into view and just opposite Melvaig north of Loch Gairloch which was approximately where I'd been aiming for.  I got into Loch Ewe in perfect sunshine and was lucky enough to be able to tie up at the new pier at Aultbea which would give good shelter for the worsening weather that was expected.  After three nights in Aultbea, I managed to 'escape' and headed north towards Greenstone Point.

Aultbea
Aultbea, Loch Ewe from the pier

It's always been my habit to pay close attention to local knowledge and it's the best advice I can give to anyone.  On this occasion, I was forewarned of the bad conditions I might expect in the 3½ miles between Slaggan Bay and Greenstone Point on my way north so I was well prepared.  Although the wind from the west was slight, the swell was considerably more than moderate and I was forced to tack a number of times.  It wasn't a happy time: the sea conditions worsened the further out I went from the shore and going about close to a lee shore was a little disconcerting, to say the least. Literally between the devil and the deep blue sea!!

Scoraig
Scoraig Peninsula, Wester Ross
from the south side of Little Loch Broom

Passing the Point was cause enough for celebration and I headed east into relatively calm waters towards the Scoraig Peninsula.  Scoraig, like Inverie on the northern shore of Loch Nevis, is not accessible from the rest of the mainland except along a rough footpath so everything, from vehicles to food, is ferried over across Little Loch Broom.  There is a community boat used as a ferry but a number of the 80 or so people who live there also have their own smaller boats which to run to the 'mainland'.  The mail is delivered three times a week and each house has it's own generator, mostly driven by the wind, for electricity.  I loved the place for its peace and tranquility and the folk there are very friendly. They live a very contented life without any of the drama that is all too often found in the more 'so called' civilized areas of the country. 

Early the next morning saw my departure from another piece of heaven as I headed out in near perfect weather towards Portree on the east coast of Skye.  Once again, scores of sea birds were my escort but as I neared the Island of Rona, the fog came down so I made for the safe anchorage at Loch a' Bhràige at the north end of the island where I stayed for two days, again because of bad weather.  Rona is a very barren and rocky island and has no permanent population.  The 270º views from the lighthouse are stunning, especially on clear days when the northern part of Skye, the Hebrides, the Shiant Isles and the mainland down to the Applecross peninsula can be seen.

Pona
The harbour at Loch a' Bhràige, Island of Rona

After deciding to leave Portree off my 'ports of call', my next run was direct to Mallaig.  Although I saw other boats from time to time on my travels, the short, narrow Sound of Rona was 'crowded' with four other vessels passing me northbound.  'Waves' and 'hello's' were the order of the day!  I also passed the white painted "Lady Catherine", complete with its helicopter as she made her way towards the Skye Bridge.  She belongs to John Paul Getty III. 

Almost seven and a half hours after leaving Rona including a short stop at the Kyle of Lochalsh for fuel, I tied up at the pier in Mallaig.  A great welcome from old friends!  Within ten minutes of my arrival, I was whisked off by a friend of mine in his speedboat for a pint (or three!) of real ale at the Old Forge pub at Inverie, six miles away in Loch Nevis.  It was good to be back!

Whilst in Mallaig, I met an old friend, amongst others, who regularly sails his yacht, "Nyvaig", around the west coast of Scotland.  He had arrived in from Plockton the day before I eventually left so our meeting was pure chance.  After staying in Mallaig for six days, I started to get itchy feet once again.  It was time to go.  I had good weather, slight wind and swell from the north-east and plenty of sun.  The Isle of Canna is always an option at which to shelter in case of bad weather but this time, I decided to press on and arrived back on Eriskay after an uneventful eight hour run.  After 14 days and 290 (statute) miles at sea, it was even greater to be home.

And now for my next trip . . . . .