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The Further
Voyages of |
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The southern end of the Outer Hebridean
chain |
With her bottom sporting a fresh
coat of anti-fouling paint, engine serviced, various repairs seen to
as well as being given a good clean, "Saorsa" was at last
re-launched on April 27 but as the summer has not exactly been encouraging
as far as sailing out into the wild blue yonder is concerned, most of
the time has been spent in local waters.
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The
Stack Islands at the southern tip of Eriskay
The remains of Weaver's Castle can just be seen on top
of the island to the right |
I had originally planned
to go on two main trips this year but so far - and it's now mid-September
- I've managed only one . . . and that was not as extensive as I would
have liked.
On the spur of the
moment and with excellent weather, I left Eriskay early one morning
and went down to Castlebay on Barra. After picking up some supplies,
I sailed on further south, exploring the east side of Vatersay, which
is now linked to Barra by a short causeway, before moving out into the
Atlantic where I continued down past the islands of Sandray,
Pabbay, Mingulay and Berneray.
To me, these last
two islands certainly are the most spectacular and, I'm afraid, the
following two photographs don't really do them any justice at all. Seeing
these two islands from a distance was awe-inspiring enough but their
sheer magnitude really came to the fore when I managed to sail close
inshore. Facing the islands, the sky all but vanished and only
came into view again when I looked vertically straight up. Mingulay
is the larger of the two and rises to a height of almost 900 feet, the
first 500 on a large part of the west side being virtually sheer up
from the sea. With a number of caves and deep gullies cut into the cliff
face, the Atlantic appeared to boil as it relentlessly smashed itself
on to the cliffs. (As with Eriskay and her "Eriskay Love
Lilt", Mingulay has her "Mingulay
Boat Song" too.)
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Mingulay and Barra Head in the
distance with their 600 foot cliffs |
And then Berneray
- or Barra Head as it is often known - came into view as I pulled away
from beneath the cliffs. At almost 630 feet, it's not as high
as Mingulay but the vertical west and south sides form a giant buttress
against the seas at this southern end of the Outer Hebridean chain of
islands. At the top of the south western corner stands the lighthouse
which is 620 feet above sea level and behind it, the ground slopes gently
down to the shore perhaps a mile or so to the north east.
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The
almost-sheer cliffs on Barra Head and Mingulay
with the lighthouse
just visible |
To get the best view of both these
islands, I sailed further out to the south west - there was nothing
else ahead of me except America - before turning north once more to
make my return. My original plan had been to anchor in the bays
for a night on each of the four main islands but unfortunately on this
trip, time wasn't on my side so, after a short walk on the beach at
Mingulay Bay, I started my return to Castlebay and Eriskay.
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Mingulay Bay on the east coast
of the island |
On my way back, I
also tried to land on Pabbay
but, because the swell from the south east was as bad, if not worse,
as it was on Mingulay (where I was all but thrown out of my dinghy as
I tried to leave the beach), I decided against it. The whole
time I was sailing round these islands, I had this immense feeling of
total emptiness and freedom and it was strange to think that I was alone
at least 13 miles from another human being in that vast expanse of sea.
All in all, a great experience and I loved every minute of it.
I'll return next year if I can.
The other trip I had
wanted to to was to go over to the Inner Hebridean islands of Eigg,
Muck, Rhum and Canna as well as visiting the Hyskeir Lighthouse before
moving on to Arisaig and Mallaig but this will now have to wait for
another time.
"Saorsa"
was taken ashore in October for the winter.
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